Doors that won't shut or latch properly are annoying, but
once you diagnose the problem the fix is usually easy. Even if your door has
been binding for years, we'll show you how to identify the problem and repair
it quickly and inexpensively.
Problem: Door binds along outside top edge
Problem: Door binds along outside top edge
When a door binds, it almost always sticks along the latch
side near the top. You can usually see the wear there. Check for loose screws
in the top hinge plate. Tightening the screws may work for the short term, but
they often come loose again because the original hole is stripped. Rather than
trying to repair the hole in the wood, replace one of the loose screws with a
longer one. The intent is to drive the new screw beyond the existing jamb and into the trimmer stud behind. In order to hit the stud, choose the screw hole closest to the stop (photo 1), otherwise, the new screw will likely miss the stud altogether. Make sure the new screw is long enough to get through the jamb, the shim space and into the stud. A No. 8, 3-in. will usually do just fine.
Problem: Door binds along bottom edge
If the door rubs on the latch-side bottom edge, look for
fastener failure again. In most cases, the lower jamb has shifted or pulled
loose from its nails, resulting in an out-of-plumb opening. To reset the jamb,
pry away the bottom section of casing and renail the jamb (photo 2). If there are no shims, install them if necessary to allow for a 1/8-in. gap between the closed door and the jamb. Then nail with 10d casing nails and tack the casing back into place.
Problem: Door binds along entire edge
If the door is binding along the entire length
of the latch-side edge, and you’ve tried the first two solutions, the door has
probably swollen from high seasonal humidity. First check to make sure all the
edges are either painted or varnished.
When a door isn’t sealed on all four edges,
moisture can enter and swell it as much as 1/4 in. so it will no longer close.
If your door isn’t well sealed, wait for the dry season to see if it will
shrink back to a good fit. Then seal it with a good primer/paint or
stain/varnish combo.
If you want immediate results, you’ll have to
remove the door from its hinges and plane or sand down the latch side, removing
just enough material so that it can shut smoothly once again. Remove as little
as possible to ensure a tight fit, then seal unfinished edges with paint or
varnish.
To support the work, we used a clamping- style
workbench to hold the door on end and adhered masking tape to the rubbing edge
as a guide for the belt sander. You can substitute a hand or power planer for
the belt sander, but the sander gives you better control over the amount of
waste you remove. Once you rehang the door and are happy with the fit, reseal
the sanded edge to keep out moisture.
Problem: Door doesn't latch
Problem: Door doesn't latch
If a door doesn’t latch, either the door or the
frame has shifted, resulting in the misalignment of the strike plate and
strike, or bolt. The quickest and easiest solution is to file the strike plate.
An easy way to tell where the problem lies is to
apply lipstick to the protruding bolt, then shut the door. The lipstick will
mark the strike position onto the strike plate and show where it needs to be
filed (photo 4).
Once you reposition the strike plate, you may
have to remove some wood behind it to allow the bolt to penetrate the jamb
freely. If the misalignment is more than 1/8 in., shift the position of the strike
plate in the jamb, rather than filing it.
Source: How to Repair Interior Doors
